The Road to the Isles
Rathad nan Eilean
Heading northeast out of Fort William on the A82 leads to
the junction with the A830, with the latter road best known as Rathad
nan Eilean, the Road to the Isles. This heads
west crossing Victoria Bridge over the River Lochy and soon after the Caledonian
Canal, crossing this via a swing bridge to the south of the set of locks known
as Neptune's Staircase. Once over this bridge the B8004 heads northeast
following the route of the canal towards Loch Lochy.
The West Highland Railway line from Fort William also follows closely to the
route of the road. As the area is also
associated with
Bonnie Prince Charlie
and the
Jacobite Rising of 1745, during the summer months The Jacobite steam train runs along
the railway line between Fort William and Mallaig.
The road continues west, past Corpach where the Caledonian
Canal joins Loch Linnhe, and then turns northwest, passing the point where
Loch Linnhe joins Loch Eil at a stretch of water known as The Narrows.
The road then continues west along the northern side of Loch Eil.
Just beyond the western end of the loch, the A861 heads
south, passing under the railway line, passing through Argour, Sunart and
Moidart. The A830 and railway line continue their journey west towards
Glenfinnan with the road passing under the railway before reaching
Loch Shiel.
While the road passes near the end of the loch the railway line crosses the
famous viaduct to the northeast before entering the station.
From Glenfinnan the A830 and the railway line continue
their journey west, initially with the railway to the north of the road, but
soon passing under it. They then continue beside each other until they reach
Loch Eilt, which they pass either side of - the road to the north and the
railway to the south.
At the western end of Loch Eilt the railway heads north to
once again pass under the road. They both head west, following the River Ailort
that flows between Lochs Eilt and Ailort. Just past Lochailort the A861 heads
southwest into Moidart while the A830 and the railway continue past the
northeast end of the loch.
Once again the road passes under the railway, just before
reaching Loch Dubh, as they head towards Loch nan Uamh, the loch of the caves.
At the eastern end of this loch the road once more passes under the railway, the
latter crossing a viaduct that is said to contain the remains of a horse and
cart. These fell into the cement while the viaduct was being made. Loch nan Uamh is
also where Bonnie Prince Charlie arrived on the
mainland at the start of the 1745 Jacobite Rising and where he finally
left Scotland from some time after the Battle of Culloden. By the side of the
loch is the Prince's Cairn to commemorate these events.
The road and rail continue to the north of the loch
swapping sides a couple more times as they approach Arisaig.
While the main road now
avoids the coast between Arisaig and the River Morar, the original twisting
route is still there and offers a spectacular alternative route passing close to
the beaches that the area is also famous for. The beaches that are known as the
White Sands of Morar have featured in a number of movies, such as
Local Hero (1983), Highlander (1986) and Rob Roy (1995).
Having run
alongside the River Morar, the coast road joins up once more with the new
stretch of the A830. The latter crosses the river over a new bridge and follows
the northern shore of the river towards Mallaig, bypassing Morar village. The
older road crosses the original bridge further upstream, which runs alongside
the railway aqueduct that it then passes under; at this point a small road
splits off that leads to Loch Morar. The original
road heads slightly further
inland to pass through Morar village on its way to Mallaig.
Mallaig is the main ferry port for the Skye, the Small Isles and Inverie on the
Knoydart peninsula. During the summer months there is
also a ferry service from Arisaig to the Small Isles.
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